Essaouira tag

Essaouira par Stéphane Galienni

Pour les amoureux d’Essaouira et pour ceux qui le deviendrons très vite, voici une petite merveille : le film expérimental de Stéphane Galienni, fameux artiste bloggeur parisien. Au travers de ce film, Stéphane parcours la médina et nous livre ses impressions intérieures. Belle visite …

Pour rappel, Autofiction est un film expérimental de 30 minutes tourné avec un téléphone Nokia N91 et diffusé au centre Georges Pompidou à Paris dans le cadre de Pocket Films Festival (grand prix du Jury 2005) et dans de nombreux festival de court-métrage du monde entier.

Le site perso de Stéphane :
Galienni.com/

Le site de son agence :
Balistikart.com/

L’art à Essaouira

Abdelmalek Berhiss

“Abdelmalek Berhiss est né en 1971 dans un village des environs d’Essaouira. Il a d’abord été maçon et ouvrier dans une carrière d’extraction de pierres. Il a commencé par sculpter des racines de thuya pour en tirer des formes animales, avant de venir à la peinture.


Berhiss se distingue des autres artistes par un style très personnel et des compositions d’un raffinement très élaboré, qui surprend quand on connaît la simplicité de son cadre de vie et les moyens rudimentaires qui sont à sa disposition.


Ses compositions, élégamment construites, frappent par la tendresse des tons et la douceur des courbes du dessin. Son sujet de prédilection, c’est toujours le monde animal, mais des créatures irréelles qu’il transforme en chimères et en monstres à plusieurs têtes.
Ses tableaux évoquent des bêtes préhistoriques, des sortes de dinosaures et d’éléphants, des espèces depuis longtemps disparues. Parfois d’étranges bovidés font penser à des fresques ou à des gravures rupestres, comme il en existe en pays berbère, dans l’Atlas et surtout dans le Hoggar. La manière de dessiner ou de détourer ses figures fait fortement penser au pointillisme utilisé dans plusieurs cultures primitives, comme chez les arborigènes d’Australie.


C’est pourquoi d’ailleurs Berhiss a été parfois qualifié de l’”arborigène d’Essaouira”. Depuis quelque temps, il s’adonne de nouveau à la sculpture : dans le même style et les mêmes tons que ses tableaux, il peint des racines aux formes complexes qui rappellent les mouvements des reptiles et la sinuosité des serpents.”

Extrait du catalogue de l’exposition du Manoir N°72 – “Les artistes singuliers d’Essaouira”.

Full Moon Over Essaouira – English

Essaouira

By Ron Bauer


This Friday night, June 1st, will be a very special evening in Essaouira where will have the sunset and the full moon rising at exactly the same time, just around 7:40PM. This moon name is the “Strawberry” moon and will rise from the mountains just as the sun sets.

Because of the wind, the sky should be exceptionally clear so find a great place, bring your camera and a warm jacket. The terrace at Dar Suki is the perfect place because you can see both at sunset and moon rise at the same time. There are many other places around the city that work well, the sea wall at the end of the port is probably the best place but it is extra windy there so dress warm. On June 30th the “Blue Moon” will rise over Essaouira which is a rare event. The Blue Moon Signifies that is is the second full moon in one month. Have a great week and be sure to have a nice full moon party!

Birds of Essaouira – English

Le port d'Essaouira

By Ron Bauer

Essaouira is a wonderful place to bird watch and spring is the best time of year. There are many great places for bird watching in and round the city. You can see lots of birds from Essaouira Beach, Safi Beach and in the trees near the Bab Sba, but the best place, by far, is around the Ksab River in the early morning. With the old Sultan’s Palace as a backdrop, the River Ksab is a wonderfully scenic place to spend the morning. And with so many birds, and so much wildlife, it’s really something not to miss while visiting Essaouira.

By far the most common bird in Essaouira is the Sea Gull. They circle the city day and night searching for food. My old Essaouira friend Chris Gilmore used to tell me that the gulls need to eat 10 time their weight in fish everyday just to fly. There is plenty of free space in the Isle de Mogador for nesting but many gulls still chose to nest on isolated roofs in the Medina. The chicks have just hatched and from the terrace of Dar Suki I can spot over 5 baby gulls. This can be a problem for residents because the birds get really loud and charge at you if you get too close.

The most famous bird in our area is the Eleonora’s Falcon that nests on Mogador. You can see them in the morning on the beach down by the lighthouse. I see them all day long near the river Ksab that flows to the sea near the castle in the sand.

The other morning I was surfing and saw over 9 of the falcons crossing over from the island to the mainland. The do not fish but feed on insects and smaller birds. They are a small predator, only about 30 – 40 CM long with a black tail and a white throat.

The falcons come to breed on Mogador and in the Canary Islands before making their return journey to Madagascar. The websight www.africanbirdclub.org says that the islets off Essaouira hold by far the world’s largest colony of Eleonora’s Falcons.

The House Bunting is my favorite bird in Morocco (see photo above). At least two of the little guys visit my apartment everyday. They fly right in my window and eat the bread crumbs from under my table. They are very bold and don’t mind at all if I’m home. It’s almost like having pets, except for the fact that these little buddies clean up after me!

There are also many other birds you can see around the city including Pink Flamingos, various species of Ducks, Morning Doves, Cormorants, Great Blue Herons, Snowy Egret and many many species of Sea Gulls.

The best Morocco birdwatching websight I can find is www.africanbirdclub.org which lists all of the species located in the country.

Essaouira Mogador Golf Update – English

By Ron Bauer

This is a very exciting project due to be complete in 2012. The entire resort will measure in the region of 5,700.000 m2 and feature a Gary Player golf course and three luxury hotels. Hotel du Palais will be located at the north end of the complex near the Sultan’s Palace. This seems to be the fanciest of the three. Then there is the Hotel du Golf located on the main road near the plateau where the welcome center is now located. Finally there is Hotel de la Plage that is located near, but not on the actual beach.


The other day I rode my bike down the beach over the river, past the castle made of sand and around the corner to check out the progress. I was surprised that the dunes and the little valley just inland have not been touched. I heard that this may have been part of the deal, no beachfront construction to save the coastline. I really hope this is true. Not matter what the resort will have a large ecological impact on the area and it would be nice if they didn’t completely spoil one of the most beautiful stretches of beach in Morocco that stretches all the way from Essaouira to Cap Sim. Funny, as I write this, I realize that that is exactly the amount of land this resort has to work with. It is and enormous empty space covering at least 20 square miles.


The resort will also have Luxury Riads and Villas. From the photos I can’t tell which may be the more expensive of the two, but I’m sure they will reach into the millions. Island views, solar heated swimming pools and luxury service.


The Gary Player golf course will include a pro shop, a golf academy and a driving range all located facing the beautiful Atlantic. There may be the wind to contend with but the course itself will be spectacular.


To be sure the resort will also include:
- Conference Centers
- Equestrian center
- Thalassotherapy Center
- Beach Clubs
- Restaurants and Coffee Shops Parks and Gardens


For complete information you can go to Mogadoressaouira.com.

The Best of Essaouira – English

By Ron Bauer

Here is my list of bests in Essaouira. We have a wonderful city with so many cool things to see and do so come and enjoy.


Best Cafe – Cafe De France
There is no better way to start you day in our beautiful city than with a hot coffee. Where to get your coffee is obvious, if you’re a local you go to the Cafe De France. Many Moroccans consider the oldest the best, and the CDF is by far the oldest cafe in the Place.


Best Pain au Chocolat – Maison Gourmande
Most people say that the Pain at the Maison Gourmand is the best. I tend to agree, but it’s a bit far away and they charge 3 per pain. You can also get them on the street that goes to Bab Marrakesh for 1 DH, but they are a bit dry. The best place in the Medina? I think the best all around value is at the little bakery directly across from the Hotel Cap Sim. It’s near the Place, just walk past Jacks Real Estate Office, turn left up the alley and the bakery is on your right. Go early because they sell out by 10AM. Arrive by 9 and you get a nice warm Pain au Chocolate for 1.5 DH. Buy a couple and get on over to the Cafe De France.


Best Restaurant – Elizir
The first thing that strikes you when you enter the restaurant is the incredible 70’s mod style. White and red plastic dining sets are mixed with large globe ceiling lamps and colorful Moroccan fabrics. The ambiance is a delight for the senses and the food is just as good.

I first met the owner Latif about 5 years ago when he worked in an antique store in the Bab Sba Square. The place was filled with amazing wonders from old French mirrors to ancient coins to 7O’s retro furniture. He would play good music and really make you feel welcome. I would spend hours there with my girlfriend hanging out, having tea and looking at all the cool stuff. Every once in a while you would ask about a particular piece and Latif would smile and say, “I am sorry, that is not for sale.”
Elizir is now filled with his great collection. The Restaurant has now been open for a year and is one of the most popular spots in Essaouira because of the great interior and great food.

Your meal starts with warm bread and a great platter with a variety of tasty treats like baby cherry tomatoes, whipped cheese and whipped olives. The appetizers are excellent. Definitely go for one of the two gnochis, cheese or pumpkin. For the main course I love the steak, but they also have really tasty tagines including fish, veal, chicken and camel. You can BYOB or order wine.

Truly a great dining experience. Elizir is located at 1 rue de Adadir, the first door on the left when you turn from Main Street.


Best Bar – The TrueThe Tru (hole)
I hate to admit it, but the Tru is my favorite bar in town. This is a real, authentic, down to earth, dive bar that dates back to the late 1800’s. A few years ago at Shakespeare and Company in Paris, I came across an old book that actually mentioned the Tru. It went something like, “I spent a few days in Mogador and while I was there I enjoyed many a bottle of local wine at a little bar hidden under the Mechouar Hotel.”

I thought that was pretty cool, I need to get the title of that book. Anyway, it’s a seedy local dive and is filled with all kinds of interesting riff raff. In my opinion, it is the perfect place to take a girl on a first date because if she can handle to toilet at the Tru, you are with one cool chick and set for life.
The Tru is located behind the Mechouar Hotel which is directly across from the Clock Tower. Facing the Hotel, look to the right and there is an alley that is just past the Hotel Sahara. Go under the big arch to the end, turn left and the bar is the last door on you left. Drinks start at 12 Dirham.
If you are looking for a night club then Taros is best from 9 to Midnight and after that go to Il Mare. Both have live music and scenes.

Beach Bar is the best place in Essaouira to go for a nice afternoon beer and watch the tide change. It has a great view of Essaouira beach, the port and there is always a good football match on Sunday Afternoon.


Best Beach Walks
Essaouira is surrounded by beautiful beaches, Safi Beach to the north and Essaouira Plage to the south. This week I took advantage of the low tides from the full moon and took two grand excursions traversing the length of both beaches. For both of these trips you can either cycle or walk.

My first big adventure was the ride down Safi Beach to Moulay Bouzerktoun. I estimate the distance on the Beach to be at about 14KM. This hike begins at the end of the main auto route. You go over the little hill on to Safi Beach and the directions are easy from there, just follow the beach. I was able to ride my bike the first 13KM, unbelievably pristine virgin beach. I only passed one person the whole way down. For the last KM, you can walk on the rocks or there is a road that is up from the beach a bit.

On my bike it took me 1.5 hours to get to Moulay and then 2 hours to return on the auto route (29KM). To walk should take about 4-5 hours. Bring lots of water and don’t worry. Moulay is a tiny town, but it does have bus service back to Essaouira.

The hike down Essaouira beach to Cap Sim is a bit shorter but just as fantastic. After crossing the River Ksab you make your way past the Castle in the Sand and from there the beach stretches all the way to the light house. On the way you pass a couple little fisherman villages remind you that people still happy to live out in the sticks. They always wave when I pass and seem quite content.

The beach ends when to get past the lighthouse, but it easy to find the trail. Keep following along the coast and you will arrive at “The Cave” which is a very popular surf spot. From there you follow the trail inland to the main highway or continue along the coast to Sidi Kaouki.

This was quite a difficult ride because I had to carry my bicycle for at least a few KM’s over the rocks. This is a much easier hike that will take about 4 hours. Take the bus back from Sidi Kaouki.


Best Surf Spot
Safi Beach is my favorite. You must surf it early in the morning before the wind comes up; say by 7AM latest. There are two spots, the first is a left that breaks in front of the old factory and the second is down the beach past the end of the rocks. If the surf is over 6 feet Safi gets too big and you will have to surf in the bay down by the lighthouse.